When it comes to
buying a bottle of wine, narrowing down the choice can be daunting. Will you buy something based on grape
variety? Producer? Price? I think we can
agree that as consumers (and wine lovers) we buy within our means, hoping that
the amount of pleasure and enjoyment we get from that wine will be on point
with cost. Maybe it’s not about price at
all, but rather a matter of trend. Are we saying no to the classics and instead
gravitating towards wines because they are in fashion? Thanks to globalization, a wine from anywhere
around the world is attainable. With all these choices, it’s no surprise that
people are steering away from the classics such as Burgundy or Bordeaux and
instead reaching for less expensive, more exotic options. I would argue though, that it might be a time for
us to step back, to return to the classics and get familiar again with the Old
World, especially Bordeaux.
So much importance is placed on this region in
wine studies, however the inherited value and importance of Bordeaux is not transcended and transmuted to
customers in wine bars and restaurants.
Are these wines made accessible to the client? Does the client not
demand it? I really don’t buy the idea that it’s
too expensive….or that inexpensive, good quality Bordeaux doesn’t exist. I also
don’t believe they are not asked for by the client.
Before answering these questions, I think it’s
fair to say that Montrealers have a cultured and sophisticated palate when it
comes to wine. However, it has come to
my attention recently, that every wine list I see is filled with wines made
from obscure grape varieties, or more examples of appellations producing
varietals that just don’t seem to fit.
Pinot Noir from Greece? No, thank you.
I’m all for experimentation and respect the risks that winemakers take
when making wine. However, something
must be said for tradition and classic quality so when I order a Pinot Noir or
Merlot, I want to have the pleasure I normally get from drinking those wines.
Sometimes, I do not want obscurity – I want familiarity.
It is true that some Bordeaux can absolutely be
expensive and, quite often unaffordable to the average person. However, I want to stress that there are
plenty of affordable, excellent quality examples out there, they simply need to
be more accessible. The responsibility
falls on the sommeliers, wine writers alike.
Wine professionals, especially sommeliers have
the opportunity to taste wine before buying.
Sommeliers are also the ones who promote wine to their customers. Why
isn’t Bordeaux being pushed, even by the glass? There are plenty examples where elegance and
depth meet with freshness and flavor that allows for enjoyable, easy drinking. Very few places in the city offer Bordeaux on
their wine list to begin with, so how can clients demand it? Well… as
consumers, we need to start asking for it.
Rarely, will an establishment say no to a client
who wants a glass of wine that is not necessarily on the list. After all, they
want customers to be happy - they want your business again. Just last week I went to CRU – an oyster bar
in Saint-Lambert, and asked for a glass of Bordeaux, which was not offered by
the glass on their menu. Not the most
likely place to offer Bordeaux, right? But, they had it and the owner was more
than happy to pour it for me. The wine was beautiful, opulent and drank so
well! I had so much pleasure from it. The
point is, if you want something, you need to ask for it. Don’t assume that just because it’s not on
the list it cannot be made available to you. Ask, insist, and…. see what
happens.
Bordeaux deserves bit more respect and there is
no better time to start drinking these wines than now. Toss the Classified
growths aside and think about those smaller growers and Châteaux who have spent
a lot of time, money and effort into improving and updating their vineyards,
equipment, and tasting rooms. The wines are only going to get better,
especially with the help of the 2009/2010 vintages. These wines have plush fruit, fresh acidity
with a great balance of oak.
Let’s not
forget Entre Deux Mers, a place to find some amazing whites at a great value!
As the name suggests, this triangular shaped region is nestled between the
Garonne River to the south and the Dorgogne River to the north. Although this region produces some fine
examples of red and sweet wine, only white wine from the region can be labelled
as coming from Entre Deux Mers. Most white wines are a blend of Sauvignon Blanc
with Sémillon, Muscadelle and Ugni Blanc grapes. Châteaux Landereau, Châteaux Lestrille and Ninon
shine best here, and are meant to be enjoyed young!
A wine blogger, it’s my pleasure to write about
the wines I enjoy and share that enthusiasm with my readers. When I get excited or interested in a
particular wine, I become that wine’s ambassador and I want to influence and
inform as many people as I can…. So, here is my shout out to Bordeaux…
The SAQ and agencies have plenty of excellent
Bordeaux to offer here in Montreal.
There is a whole range that is so versatile in their profile, there are
options for everyone’s personal palate. For example, the 2009 Moulin de Citran 2009 or the 2012 Les Ramparts de
Ferrière – with its fresh acidity and its earthy texture makes it a great
wine to enjoy on it’s own. The 2005 Château Gruaud Larose is all about
elegance and finesse, making it a wonderful wine to accompany filet mignon with
Bordelais sauce. Whatever the pairing, whaever the reason, we need to go
back to the classics. Back to where some
of the most exciting, beautiful, and elegant wines are being made. Let’s open a bottle of Bordeaux, raise our glasses
and sip in bliss.
Blanc de
Chasse-Spleen 2015
Grapes: Semillion
(55%), Sauvignon Blanc (42%), Muscadelle (3%)
SAQ: 11976404
Price: $38.25
Agent :
Charton Hobbs
Round, silky palate with concentrated passionfruit, pear and
white flowers. The acidity is bright,
refreshing and is good balance with the salty steely, layered finish. Drink now or within 2-3 years. (Photo: saq.com)
Les Ramparts de
Ferrière 2012
Grapes :
Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot (40%)
SAQ :
12194463
Price :
$42.25
Agent :
Charton Hobbs
A fantastic nose of blackberries, dark cherries with a bit
of tobacco and wet wool. The medium
bodied palate has concentrated cassis and plum fruit flavors, dark chocolate
and a slight herbs that is supported by a good acidity and tannins that are
finely medium grained. The oak is very
well integrated and in harmony with the wine.
The finish is generous and layered – this wine can be held for the next
5-6 years. Hand harvested and aged in French Oak for 12 months. (Photo: saq.com)
Moulin de Citran
2009
Grapes : Cabernet
Sauvignon (58%), Merlot (42%)
SAQ :
00737924
Price :
$29.55
Agent :
Charton Hobbs
This wine explodes with loads of dark cherries, blackberries
and dusty earth. The medium bodied wine
has lovely fruit, with a very good balance of fresh acidity and tannin
structure that is medium yet fine grained, leading to a generous and supple,
persistent finish. The oak is very well
integrated…just enough to give it elegance and harmony. Drink now or within 4-5 years. (Photo: saq.com)
Châteaux Gruaud
Larose 2005
Grapes :
Cabernet Sauvignon (60%), Merlot (32%), Cabernet Franc (4%), Petit Verdot (3%),
Malbec (1%)
SAQ : 13201071
Price : $467.75 ( 1.5 L )
Agent : Chartson Hobbs
A rich and generous nose of black cherries, blackberries,
earth and tobacco. The medium bodied
palate has notes pf blackberry fruit, bramble, and plum, interwoven with bits
of herbes de Provence. The tannins are
grippy, the acidity bright, and long and layered very enjoyable finish that has
a lot of depth and finesse. Drink or
within the next 10 years.
