Wednesday 31 May 2017

The Rustic Elegance of the Wines of Greece: Part 1 : Santorini


Assyrtiko.  Xinomavro. Moschofilero.   Not the easiest of grape names to pronounce.  Papagiannakos, Thymiopoulos, Hatzidakis. The names of Greek wine producers are not much better.  The unfamiliarity of the wines or producers of Greece should not be a reason to shy away from them.  Greek wines are of exceptional quality and value. They are the best examples of rustic elegance that you can find when it comes to wine. They are bursting with flavour, balanced by exceptional acidity and satisfying minerality. They are powerful, and pure yet at the same time delicate. For those who are unfamiliar with Greek wine, it is difficult to compare its style to anything else; they’re in a class of their own.  The only way to gain an understanding of their profile is to take the leap and go try them for yourself.  There is no better place to start than Santorini.



 It’s a wonder anything grows there at all. The winds are fierce, the sun is scorching, and the soils poor.  If you can even call it soil. Given its dry climate, the land is made up of sand, pumice, and rock.  There is little rain that falls in the long, dry growing season and not much plant life can survive in conditions such as these; but grape vines do, and the wines from Santorini are better off for it.

In this photo, you can see the 'bird nest' shaped baskets that are used to grow grapes, protecting them from the harsh environment and scorching sun and high winds.  

 Photo: winesofsantorini.com



DOMAINE HATZIDAKIS

Founded in 1997 by Haridimos and Konstantina Hatzidakis, the estate has 10 ha of  their own vineyards that are roughly 300 m above sea-level, and are farmed organically.   The remainder of grapes they receive for their wine are from growers who also apply organic farming.  This ensures that the best quality of grapes are used to make their wine.


Domaine Hatzidakis Assyrtiko Cuvée. 15 2012   
SAQ:  11901189  $38.75* ( 2015 vintage)
The assyrtiko grapes for this cuvee were left to have skin contact for about 12 hours, followed by a fermentation with natural yeasts at 18°C.  The wine was then left on lees for 8 months in stainless steel tanks, then bottled unfiltered. 

Medium gold in color, this wine has enticing aromas of citrus, red delicious apple, pear and walnuts. The ample palate has concentrated citrus and apple fruit, golden raisin and slight saline notes.  There is amazing acidity with a long and complex finish.  Drink now or within the next 2-3 years.  This tasting note is from the 2012 vintage, SAQ currently holds 2015.

Food Pairing: Bakes artichokes stuffed with feta and herbs.
                                                                                    


ESTATE  ARGYROS

Soon after Yiannis Argyros took over running the family estate winery in 1975, he increased vineyard size to 65 acres and updated the estate.  Down to earth and endearing, his wines are as fun and approachable as he is. Argyros Estate has some of the oldest vines in Santorini, most being around 150 years old.  These old vines yield very little, and that is reflected in their extremely concentrated and complex wines. 



Estate Argyros Assyrtiko 2015
SAQ: 12889556  $28.15

Pale lemon in colour, the nose displays citrus fruit with nuances of the sea.  The palate is clean, crisp and precise.  It cuts right through to citrus with mouth-watering saline notes that mesh nicely with the bright acidity.  There is almost the impression of tannin here, despite it being a white wine.  Excellent structure and balance.  Drink now or within the next 2-3 
                                                     years. 

Food Pairing: Grilled white fish with asparagus and citrus aioli. 



Photo: saq.com




Argyros Assyrtiko Oak Fermented 2015
SAQ: 12338800 $32.00

Pale lemon in colour, there are aromas of citrus with saline, floral, and savoury notes.  The broad palate is loaded with citrus, green apple, and steely minerality.  The bright acidity leads to a long and refreshing salty finish. Clean flavours, a really fantastic wine! Drink now or within the next 2-3 years.

Food Pairing: Asparagus with egg, crispy bacon and parmesean.

Photo: saq.com


The excitement I have for these wines is hard to hide, and the ones I have suggested above are just a few of my favourites.  Next week, I will be taking you through Northern Greece and the Péleponèse.  Happy tasting!


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