A Walk on the Wine Side: WOTW: Franck Massard Humilitat 2012

Loco cuerdo. Crazy sane. Things that are so incredibly bizarre, yet make perfect sense…. no better city than Barcelona to be the example, and no better region than Catalunya . Every aspect of that place is loco cuerdo…. artwork of Salvador Dali, Gaudi’s Casa Milà and Basílica de la Sagrada Familia, jamon, Ferran Adria’s elBulli (though now closed) , late night tapas, Montserrat, oh…and let’s not forget the wine.

Enter Franck Massard - a Frenchman, awarded best sommelier in the UK 1996, who had a dream to make his own wine, and Priorat the location. In 2004, he bought a plot of land from who else, but a taxi driver (loco), and started making beautifully fruit driven wines that have depth, freshness, and reflect terroir (cuerdo).

Franck Massard at Poboleda Photo: Epicure Wines

After working as brand ambassador for Torres and studying towards his MW, Massard realized that to truly understand how wine is made, he would have to get his hands dirty and take it on himself. Particularly fond of its wines, and perplexed by the soil/terroir, Priorat seemed a fascinating and likely place for him and his close friend Christophe Brunet to begin. The plot was only 3.3 ha, which included a shed. Making a garage wine for them was nothing short of loco.

With a little refurbishing and obtaining a bit more land, what was meant to be a hobby turned into something much more. His vision for making wine was clear, as Massard states: "Priorat displays energy, power, but a good Priorat should also have a lifted finish. Meaning that we have the Mediterranean warm side, but the wine should have an element of herby scent and savouriness. Somehow the qualities of northern Rhône, but less aromatic than a Syrah and the savouriness that is in good Italian wines."

Llicorella in the Priorat Photo: Epicure Wines

Priorat is famous for its llicorella (schist) soil and the oldest in Catalunya are found there. Due to its poor organic matter and good drainage, the vines have to work hard to develop their root system, and this has a huge impact on the wine. The results are naturally low yields (about 25hl/ha) creating rich, intense fruit and low pH.

Humilitat is made with grapes purchased from the villages of Poboleda and Torroja, which is a little further north from his facility. Massard noticed a difference of one month in terms of ripening period in that area due to location and altitude, resulting in better acidity and freshness - one of Humilitat’s key characteristics.

Terraces of Poboleda, Priorat Photo: Epicure Wines

Starting from a very small plot to 2013 Naked Winemaker of the year, Franck Massard is founder and owner of Epicure wines and has an array of different bottles in his portfolio. So… I guess it is fair to say every great mind does not come without a bit of craziness. In Massard’s case, no one gets to live their dream by waiting for things to happen. It starts with an idea - a seemingly impossible one… but tasting Humilitat 2012, it all makes perfect sense to me.

This wine is so elegant and alive, it shook to me to my core and I was instantly transported back to Priorat - back to Spain…. loco cuerdo. With production of about 20,000 bottles, Humilitat is fermented in stainless steel tanks at a temperature between 24-26 Celsius, and is then aged for 12 months in 500-litre used French oak barrels.

Medium purple with ruby hues, the legs are long and slow. Smells like Italy with all the violets, Mediterranean herbs, and ripe strawberries and blackberries. The palate brings me back to Spain though.... Juicy, ripe blackberries and plum with elements of minerality, spice, and slight smoke. The mouthfeel is rich and full, yet not heavy due to the excellent acidity, fine tannin and very long, complex finish. The flavours play over and over again, so elegant. So powerful. Drink now or within the next 4-5 years.

Humilitat has been out in SAQ stores for while now, so bottles are few and far between. I cannot sing the praises of this wine high enough, so if you want your hands on a future bottle....contact Importations Syl-Vins.